Hey everyone, I’ve been lurking on these threads while shopping around for my first Best Buy phone buy (finally ditching my ancient Galaxy S8), and this post nails all the stuff that’s got me paranoid too. I’ll chime in on what I’ve pieced together from digging into Reddit, Samsung/Apple forums, and some quick chats with Best Buy folks-nothing official, just my two cents as a noob trying not to screw up.
On the unlocked Android side (Samsung specifically), from what I’ve read on XDA and Samsung’s community, buying an “unlocked” model like the Galaxy S24 unlocked variant and doing “activate today” with, say, Verizon or AT&T at checkout usually just sets up your SIM/account but doesn’t swap the firmware or CSC to a carrier-locked one. The CSC stays as the global/unlocked version (like XAA for US unlocked), so updates should roll out on Samsung’s standard timeline-not delayed like carrier bloatware versions. That said, activating might preload some carrier apps (easy to disable), and for 5G/WiFi calling, it’ll work fine on the original carrier, but if you switch later, you might lose carrier-specific tweaks like Verizon’s advanced calling. No biggie for most folks, but if you’re planning to hop carriers often, I’d skip activation and pop in your own SIM at home to keep it pure unlocked.
For iPhones, yeah, even if you pay full price upfront, connecting to a carrier during checkout (like picking AT&T at the register) will lock it to that carrier for 60 days under Apple’s “flex lock” policy-it’s all about preventing resale flips. If it’s a return/open-box, the lock and timer can carry over if the previous owner activated it; Best Buy staff can usually check the IMEI status right there using Apple’s GSX tool or a quick lookup on their system (just ask them politely-they did it for me on a demo unit). Pro tip: Before buying any open-box, have them run an IMEI check for blacklisting too (via CTIA’s free site or Swappa’s checker app on your phone).
Open-box risks are real but not super common if Best Buy’s on top of it. IMEIs shouldn’t be tied to old installment plans or debts once processed as a return, but glitches happen-I’ve seen stories on forums where a phone was still financed under the old account. In-store, ask for a full IMEI scan through their system; they can flag financing locks or blacklists. If you’re sketched out, use an external service like IMEI.info or call the carrier with the number to verify it’s clean before handing over cash.
eSIM on US iPhones is straightforward if you go “activate later”-you can totally set it up with a foreign eSIM (like from Airalo for travel) right out of the box without any US carrier lock kicking in. No retailer flags either, since nothing’s tied to a domestic plan yet. Just make sure it’s a physical SIM or eSIM setup during initial iOS config, and it’ll stay unlocked until you choose a carrier.
Best Buy SKUs are usually identical to direct-from-manufacturer for unlocked models in terms of bands and updates-same hardware, same software cadence. The only diff I’ve noticed is carrier-specific ones (like T-Mobile variants) might have extra bands for that network, but unlocked ones match Samsung/Apple direct buys perfectly.
Warranty-wise, AppleCare+ and Samsung Care+ start on the retail purchase date (scan at checkout), not activation-Apple’s site confirms this, and Best Buy’s policy matches. So even if it sits in the box for weeks, you’re covered from day one.
Stacking deals without locking yourself in: Totally doable. Do price match (bring proof from Amazon/Samsung site), pick “activate later” to keep it unlocked, and trade in your old phone for credit-I’ve done this combo and saved like $200 on an S23. My Best Buy membership (free tier) gets you early access to deals and easier returns, but “activate today” phones have the same 15-day return window as “later” ones, just minus the activation fee refund if you bail early. No huge perks diff, but activating locks you into that carrier’s promos, so later is smarter for flexibility.
Quick checklist for smart buying (what I’m using myself):
- Pre-buy checks: Ask staff to IMEI scan for locks/blacklist/financing. Verify SKU is unlocked (not carrier-specific).
- At checkout: Pay full for unlocked model, choose “activate later,” stack price match + trade-in. Add Care+ if wanted (starts now).
- Post-buy setup: Test with your own SIM/eSIM first (foreign one if traveling). Update firmware immediately.
- Avoid gotchas: Skip “activate today” unless you need the instant discount and plan to stick with that carrier. For open-box, only if IMEI’s 100% clean-otherwise, new is worth the extra $20-50.
- Returns buffer: Keep receipt and test everything within 14 days (unopened for full refund if needed).
Hope this helps someone else stressing like me-anyone else got recent experiences with these deals?